Dreaming of Fiji

by Jennifer Kim Goldfarb

Fiji HoneymoonLeaving this particular slice of paradise was rough, but we eventually hopped another couple of flights to Ovalau, one of the largest of the Lomaiviti Group off the east coast of Viti Levu. This is where we got the biggest dose of both colonial and native history and culture.

The main city, Levuka, (population 3,000) feels like an old Western ghost town. Back in the 1850s, the trading outpost had a reputation for being rough, rowdy, and rambunctious. We stayed at The Royal Hotel, the oldest hotel in all of Fiji. An old gentleman named Henry hosts a walking tour to the town’s historic sites.

The other can’t-miss tour is with Epi, a local from the village of Lovoni. Epi takes groups on a hike up to his village nestled inside an extinct volcano crater. Along the way, he shares his extensive and fascinating knowledge of local plants and their medicinal and nutritious properties. He shimmied up palm trees so we could sample the difference between old and young coconut milk. Once we reached his village, we were treated to a feast of dishes made from taro, kumala (sweet potato), a local variety of spinach, and lolo (coconut cream). He also regaled us with a long but fascinating story of how the villagers ended up settling inside an extinct volcano.

We reluctantly left Ovalua and caught a flight back to Suva and drove along the Coral Coast toward Nadi. An endless line of resorts hugs the road along the southern coast of Viti Levu. These resorts are comfortable, familiar places for families and honeymooners with minimal time to explore Fiji. The pottery villages and markets near Sigatoka make excellent excursions from most resorts.

We returned home to Chicago delighted that we’d discovered the rich cultural history and romantic landscapes of the Fiji Islands. This robust nation has left us with wonderful memories of an exotic honeymoon adventure we’ll remember for years to come.

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Jennifer first traveled to South Korea with her family when she was seven years old, and has had a chronic case of wanderlust ever since. She met her husband while living in Tokyo, but as it turned out they were both from California! They travel with family and friends as much as possible.

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